Disclaimer: use these suggestions at your own risk. This is the possibility
that I have mis-typed part numbers or mis-converted fluid conversions.
Please notify me of any mistakes you should encounter. You may wish to
verify volumes for other model years. These recommendations are meant to be
used in addition to a proper service manual.
Please note that Guzzitech may have new, informative articles/procedures that I haven't referenced
in to this site yet. Of course, there are many other fine reference sites
The items in this list are those suggested by the Owner's Manual and
required to maintain the factory warranty. Additionally, the parts and
part numbers listed, are factory parts (OEM) as required by the warranty.
All required fluid volumes have been converted to English system for ease of
reference (for myself) in the backwards U.S. with the metric volumes in
Oil and oil filter change
Motogoose.com has a write-up of the procedure for changing the oil on his 1999 EV.
The procedure for the Stone is the same. Do remember to clean the mesh filter
in the oil pan as well.
- Crush washer for drainbolt (Part 9510 0709) - it may not be necessary
to change this washer every oil change
- 1 Oil filter (Part 30153000)
- 1 Oil pan gasket (Part 1400 3600)
- 3.171 quarts (3 L) oil (20W50 or your choice - check your owner's manual. NOTE: 2003 models with hydrualic lifters should use 5W40 full synthetic oil. Valvoline SynPower 5W40 from NAPA has been used with good results.)
oil filter wrench (Part 17030 from Harper's) makes this task easier
Also, the sticky black goo in the center of the drain bolt is meant to
be there - no need to pick it out. The good news is that if you do
pick it out it's not a big deal.
Finally, if you use some gasket sealant on one side of the oil pan gasket
(I use the side that sticks to the pan), and then just oil on the other side,
you have a good chance of re-using these gaskets for a few times.
Air Filter change
Guzzitech has a nice write up on the fuel filter replacement that also
includes instuctions on tank removal. Check it out, in addition to my
- 1 Air filter (Part 3011 3600)
In order to access the air filter box, you must at least partially remove the
gas tank. This is much easier than it sounds. Be sure to have some
rags handy to mop up any spillage from the hoses you will disconnect.
Start by removing the single bolt that is hiding under the seat. Then
lift the tank up and backwards slightly. This will give you room to
disconnect hoses. Follow along the lines leading out of the fuel sensor
and the petcock until you find a spot where you can disconnect the wires.
Be careful not to break the little plastic boot inside that snugs up and
protects the connection. Be sure to mark the lines so you know which to
connect up later (my bike had one set labeled with red, making it easy).
Now, you can move the tank more freely. Disconnect the hose coming off
the petcock, too. It should be hose clamped into place. Now, follow
along the hose coming out of the fuel pressure adjuster that is under
the front of the tank. Down near the fuel filter, you will see it is
hose clamped into place (the kind of clamp you can remove easily). Unhook
this hose, so that the fuel pressure adjuster can be moved with the tank.
Now there are just two connections left. The first is easy: reach down
under the tank and feel for the vent hose connected up under the middle. Pull
it off of the tank. The final vent hose is attached at the front of the
tank. I found that by putting a support (chair) next to the motorcycle,
I could leave this final hose in place and just scoot the tank onto the
support with it still attached.
Unscrew the three bolts that hold the air box closed. Change out your
filter, and put everything back as you found it. When
replacing the gas tank, feel under the front for the cut out rounded
parts that are to rest on the gas tank support. When you are sliding
the tank back into place, hold it up slightly to fit it on the round
You can add quick disconnects to the hoses to make gas tank removal
and replacement easier in the future. Here's a set that works: BMW
Part # 1331 7659 120 & 1331 7659 119 (one male and one female).
Adjust Valve Clearances
MotoGoose.com has a write up of the procedure for adjusting the valves. I found
it quite easy to find TDC by rotating the alternator nut. I needed a
15/16" socket (a 23mm would be nice) to move the nut. Crank the nut
clockwise as you are facing the front of the bike and feel for air
pressure while covering the spark plug hole with your thumb. Then, insert
(gently) a screwdriver in the hole and continue to turn the nut until the
screwdriver is pushed up as far as possible. Now, look in the little window
at the flywheel to find "D" or "S" depending on whether you're working on
the right or left cylinder.
- 2 valve cover gaskets (Part 1402 3760)
Note on extra-thick gaskets: when I bought new gaskets, I ended up ordering
ones that were extra-thick and supposedly created a better seal. Probably
due to my inexperience, when I tightened the covers back down, I crimped
one of these gaskets so that it created an immediate leak. The other one
developed a leak some 1000 miles later. Both were replaced with the
standard gasket and seem to be working well.
Change Spark Plugs
Don't forget to put a little antiseize on the threads of the spark plugs.
It will make your job easy the next time around.
- 2 spark plugs (Part NGK BPR 6ES) - gapped to 0.0276 inch (0.7 mm)
Change Gear Box Oil
Motogoose.com has a write up of the procedure for changing the transmission fluid.
The procedure is basically the same for the Stone. Don't let the photos of
floorboards confuse you. Also, our fill hole is on the same side as the
fill level hole. I was advised just to add the correct amount, without
opening and looking in the fill level hole.
- 0.793 quarts (0.750 L) of MP SAE 80W90 oil
- Crush washer (Part 0152 8930) - you might need to change this occasionally
Change Rear Drive Box Oil
Here is a great source for Moly additive.
- 0.264 quarts (0.250 L) made up of 0.243 quarts (0.230 L) MP SAE 80W90
oil and 0.021 quarts (0.020 L) ASO/R or Molykote Type A
- Crush washer (Part 0152 8930) - you might need to change this occasionally
This is another procedure where it is not advised to open and look through
the fill-level hole. Just fill with the correct amount of fluid.
Check and adjust:
- Carburetion - this means to set the TPS and balance the throttle bodies.
See the write-up at Guzzitech.com on how to do this.
- Nuts and Bolts - don't want any of these rattling off!
- Fuel tank, petcocks, filters, pipes
- Brake fluid (DOT 4 if needed) - look at the level lines in the box on
the right bar as well as in the container under the right side cover.
- Brake pads - these should be >1.5mm in thickness or must be replaced. (Part 0165 4630 should be one pair of pads -- LOOK OUT! Front and Rear pads have different Part Numbers - update coming soon. Well, if you buy EBC pads, front and rear are FA209 and FA244 - don't know which is which.)
I haven't reached 12,000 miles on my 2002 Stone yet. However, I'm adding
this section now, since I did my fork oil change at 6,000 miles (as it
was skipped at my break-in service). I will add more detail to this
section when I actually reach this service.
For the 12,000 mile service, repeat the procedures performed for the 6,000
mile service, as above. In addition, perform the following procedures:
Fork Oil Change
Changing the fork oil is really quite easy, even if you follow the service
manual procedure of removing and inverting the forks. Remove the front
wheel and fender. I recommend working on one fork at a time. To avoid the
whole business with a vise, loosen the top cap of the fork with a
large adjustable wrench (unless you have a giant combo wrench that will
work) while the fork is still on the bike. Then, loosen the three screws
that hold the fork in place. Slide the fork out (downward). When you
turn the fork upside down to empty it, a length of pvc tube will slide
out. Underneath it is a large spring. Be careful, or they will go
crashing and splashing into your oil pan! Once you have drained as
much oil as possible, push the upper fork into the lower fork (still
pointing the end at the oil pan). Keep pumping until no more oil
- 0.597 qt (0.565 L) SAE 10W Fork Oil for each fork = 1.094 qt
To refill, add about half the amount of fork oil, and then, again,
pump the upper part of the fork into the lower until the motion
becomes smooth and regular due to the oil filling the lower portion.
Add the rest of the oil, pump a few more times, and fit the cap back
in place. You'll have to push down on the spring with the pressure
from the cap in order to get the threads started. Replace the fork
on the bike, tighten the screws, and then give the cap a final
tightening. The bottom of the fork will swivel around easily, so you
don't need to worry about its orientation when you replace the fork.
I have heard of an alternate option, but I haven't tried it: after
removing the front wheel, up inside the fork there is a 8mm bolt.
With a suitable extension on your socket wrench, you may be able to
loosen this screw and let the oil drain from there. Then, just
open the top cap to fill. This seems like a bad idea, however, as
per Ric Davis' comment, "I don't think this is a good idea. That bolt
goes in to the damping mechanism inside the fork. That mechanism can
potentially rotate, forcing you to strip the fork down to lock it
in place to allow re-assembly. Also, I suspect it's meant to be
thread locked in place, and getting thread lock to work after you've
just drained fork oil through it just isn't going to work."
Replace Fuel Filter
Note that if you buy an aftermarket, non-OEM part, it may or may not include
- Fuel filter (Part 2910 6061)
- Crush washers (2 of Part 1200 6400 (forward end) and 1 of Part 1816 1150 (rearward end))
Once again, check out the Guzzitech.com write-up on tank removal,
air filter, and fuel filter replacement.
The fuel filter is a pain in the butt to remove from amongst the
frame tubes and wiring where it hides. Just remove as much as possible
from the filter before pulling it out. Definitely plan some extra
time to fiddle with tube tightening, in case you have a leak when
you get everything back in place and fire up the bike. Also, don't
skimp on the crush washers - you really need new ones for this
Change Brake Fluid
- Wheel and steering bearings
- Starter motor and generator
Front Wheel Removal
This is pretty straightforward, if you have a centerstand (or you could
use a lift). I put the
Stone on the centerstand and then used a jack (with a board on top
to spread out the force) under the oil pan to tilt the bike back on
to the rear wheel. Remove the two screws that hold on the brake
caliper. Make sure you support the brake caliper with something (don't
leave it dangling by the brake line).
The key to front wheel removal on the 2002 Stone is loosening the
two screws at the very bottom of the right fork. After this, it is
simply a matter of unscrewing the long axle bolt, pulling it out, and
removing the wheel. There is a little stub of allen key in the stock
tool kit - it fits nicely into the axle bolt and can be turned with a
hex socket. When you pull out the bolt, keep track of which spacer goes
on which side (thin on the left, thick on the right).
To replace the wheel, just work in reverse. Don't forget to tighten
up the two screws at the bottom of the fork!
Rear Wheel Removal
Since the Stone is forward heavy, it will easily rest on the front
wheel and centerstand for this procedure. Alternatively, you could
use a lift.
First, remove the left side muffler (one acorn nut and loosen the
clamp where it joins the H-pipe); it will take some tugging and
twisting to pull it off the H-pipe. Then, unscrew the two screws
holding the brake caliper to the caliper plate. Remember not to
leave the caliper hanging; find something to support it. Now it
is time to remove the axle bolt. You'll need a big combo wrench
(1 1/16") on the right side and a socket wrench with the stub of
big allen key from the stock tool kit for the left side. I used
a board to wedge the socket wrench into place, in order to turn
the combo wrench on the right side. After you unscrew the nut,
pull the axle bolt through on the left side. Again, keep track
of the direction the spacer faces. Finally, the caliper plate
must be removed from the wheel. Now, if someone strong tilts
the bike over to the right, the wheel can be easily pulled off on
the left side. With care, it can be slid out past the fender.
While the wheel is off, you should be sure to grease the splines
to protect the metal from oxidation. A small amount of grease
is sufficient. The part to be concerned about is simply the
toothy sprog looking things shown in these wheel photos (thanks to Jim W. for the photos!). Any kind of
grease will do, as it is not required for lubrication, simply to coat and
protect the metal.
Comments on New Tires
The stock wheel on the Stone is spoked and uses tubed tires. This is
unfortunate in that it makes roadside repair nearly impossible (you
can't use a simple plug).
General consensus seems to suggest that tubes should be replaced when
you get new tires, or at least once per year if you go through several
sets of tires in a year. You should also consider checking that the
rubber spoke strip (which protects the tube from the spokes where they
enter the inside of the wheel) is still flexible and not dry rotted.
Some say this can be replaced with a bit of duct tape, if you want to
take the cheap route. Valve stems may also need replacing - make sure
they are replaced with the same type as the original (choices include:
metal or rubber stem; straight or 90 degree angle; and whether the
stem is in the center of the tube or off to the side - I guess this
last is more of a tube option).
I get my tires mounted and balanced at the local shop. I pay more
for the tires than I would from an online source, but I like the
shop and this is a good way (worthwhile to me) to give them business.
As long as my tire is in stock, I carry in my wheel and carry it back
out in about ten minutes.
If you want to mount and balance your own, there are lots of places on
the web to find information on this. One really good reference is
Adam Glass' site. I'll try to add some additional
links later (in particular, in reference to tire removal and bead breaking
and also on wheel balancing), but here is some recent information from
Tom at the Wildguzzi forum on mounting tires without pinching (and ruining!)
Additional suggestions from Tom: Take your time. Use soapy water in spray bottle for lubrication not a chemical spray lube like WD40.
- Check the rim strip and replace if cracked or brittle.
- Inspect the tube (flexibility/wear) and valve stem (rust/wear) and
use a replacement if needed.
- Sprinkle a small amount of baby powder in the tire to help chafing of
the tube against the inside of the tire. Rotate tire to evenly coat the inside.
- Mount 1st part of tire then install tube.
- Remove valve core from valve stem.
- Inflate tube to remove kinks in the tube and set up tube in tire. Deflate.
- Replace valve core in valve stem.
- Reinflate enough (about 5 lbs) to move tube away from rim so you won't pinch the tube with the tire iron.
- Mount 2nd half of the tire and inflate the tire.
The best place I have found on the web with tire recommendations for
California models is Martyn's Tire Guide. Just remember to add
tubes to your shopping order for your Stone.
In addition to checking nuts and bolts and tire pressure regularly, here
are some tips for other items to check/adjust/lube:
- Shifter maintenance: grease the ball joints, diassemble and grease the shift lever shaft, reset the end-float on re-assembly
- Foot brake: disassemble and lube the foot brake shaft
- Re-torque the cylinder heads when adjusting valves (before the valve adjustment)
- Driveshaft lubrication: there are front and rear splines that can be lubed if you are inclined toward this task. Look at the wildguzzi.com forum for tips.
- Lubricate the pivots on the clutch and front brake lever: lube the cables if they are NOT teflon and the cable ends so they can pivot freely.
- Check whether your hydrualic valves need shimming (if you have hydraulic
Pete Denzer reports:
"It's possible for the private owner to check whether his hydraulic valves
are in need of shimming or not (thanks to advice from Todd Haven of MPH
Cycles). The check can be performed while retorquing heads; it only adds
a few minutes to the job. During the retorquing, the rockers must be
removed. At this time, pull out the pushrods and remove the tappets,
using a telescoping pencil magnet. Place the tappets in a soft-jawed vice
(or use rags as I did) and compress the tappets until oil seeps out of the
tiny holes. This bleeds the tappets. When they are completely bled, you will
be able to move them with your fingers, the movement is slight, about 1/8 of
an inch or less. Reinstall the tappets, rockers, etc. and check the clearance
between the top of the valves and the rocker arms, pushing down on the rocker
at the pushrod end to compress the lifter. The clearance should be no more
than 2.1 millimeter, or .082". Mine measured much tighter than that (which
is good): 15 and 20 thou for the exhausts, 14 and 8 thou for the intakes.
The heads were right on the money as well."
Wayne Orwig adds that you must be careful using the rag-in-vice technique:
"Problem is that it can force little bits of rag into the tappet. Probably
a bad thing. You probably need to keep them VERY clean. I'm sure a little
bit of anything in them will prevent them from working right."
Dave R. says:
"If you have the new rockers they will take up most of the slack, and
shims are not nessasary. Remember that the piston has to be at TDC on the
compression stroke when the lifters (after being bled down) are reinstalled.
Any turning of the motor will pump oil into the lifter resulting in a false
reading. Good luck to all."
I thought it might be useful to compile a list of parts eventually requiring
replacement, along with the time frame in which you might expect them to
become worn or to fail. As I encounter any of these myself, I will add
additional information on how to take care of the problem.
Check below for some alternate part numbers, and read
this helpful site
regarding battery-charging information.
Clutch push rod seals at 15,000-25,000 miles
If not caught early, expect to replace the clutch friction plate as well.
See Guzziology for the "O-ring fix." Cost is about $10.
See MotoGoose's write-up.
U-Joint and carrier bearing at 50,000-70,000 miles
Easy to install if the old bearing is together. Parts cost about $250.
Here are some specialized tools that Guzzi folk have found to come in handy:
Special thanks to Joe Martin for lending his list of alternative parts for
Californias as the basis of this section; other tips have been gleaned from
elsewhere. Use caution applying some of these parts for Stone models.
- Interstate Cycle-tron Part#Y60-N24AL-B. A perfect fit with the tool tray and
works fine.(Info from Jackal Owner)
- Yuasa Part#Y60-N24AL-B (same as above!) is also a perfect fit, no modifications or cutting, in Steve in VAs Jackal
- Energizer U1R-230 from PEP Boys. Not a perfect fit and requires removal of the tool kit try under the seat. Still, it works fine and only costs about $25. (This info from Mike Welsh, Jackal owner.)
- Harley-Davidson Part #66010 97A - This sealed battery fits EVs perfectly; it most likely fits Stones/Jackals
- Odyssey Dry Cell PC 925
- Universal Battery D5768 UB16L-B (www.ubcbattery.com) - works on a Stone,
but you must remove the charcoal canister to make it fit. There is still
space for the toolkit tray, but the battery hold down doesn't fit it
- Napa Part #60N24A will work
- Parts Unlimited #RC60-N24AL-B from any PU dealer
Bearing numbers appear to be generic, as NAPA had no problem assisting JoeB
with the following:
- carrier bearing: 6206-2RS
- rear wheel bearing: 6204-2RS
- front wheel bearing 6304-2RS
- steering bearings: 30205 is the Universal ISO number
- MG #03654600
- Brembo # 107.5270.11 (comes w/ hardware)
- Ferodo # FDB2006 (no hardware)
- EBC # FA209 (no hardware)
Front Brake Micro Switch
- Cherry Electrical Products # DC1C-L1AA
Here are the McMaster-Carr
part numbers for some stainless screws:
- Oil Sump (takes 14?) and Cylinder Head Covers (take 8 each): Metric 316
SS Socket Head Cap Screw M6 Thread, 25mm Length, 1mm Pitch,
$6.40/25 - 92290A330
- Front fender (takes 4): Metric 18-8 SS Button Head Socket Cap Screw M8
Size, 50 mm Length, 1.25 mm Pitch, $4.52/5 - 92095A298
- Larger screws for touring shield (ones that require a 4mm allen key):
Metric 316 SS Flat Head Socket Cap Screw M6 Size, 25mm Length, 1mm Pitch,
$5.69/25 - 93395A363
- NAPA Part# 3008 or 3564
- Bosch F5005
- Car-Quest 86564
- Wix 33008 or 33564
- Purolator F 50155
- Big A 95008
- Beck/Arnley 043-0660
- Worldparts 043-0660
- Allied Signal G4777
- Deutsch FF507
- VW/Audi 431-133-511
Fuel Pump (External)
- Bosch 0580464048
- NAPA (Carter/Federal) P72018
- Auto Zone (Master) E7334
Gas Line Quick Connect
- BMW Part # 1331 7659 120 & 1331 7659 119 (one male and one female)
Head Lamp Parts
Note: no Stone replacements listed as of yet.
Big Light (Cal. Spec./Bassa/Jackal/v11 Sport) BMW R100/7 part numbers:
Small Light (EV/Centauro) BMW R65/R850R part numbers:
- Chrome rim: 63 12 1 356 402
- Reflector: 63 12 1 355 396
- Lens: 63 12 1 358 147
- Chrome rim: 63 12 1 243 539
- Reflector: 63 12 1 243 537
- Lens: 63 12 1 243 541
- Crankcase Breather Hose - Dayco #80404 or NAPA Heater hose # 9811 (WARNING: Heater hoses may not last more than about 12,000 miles in this application!)
- Dash lights: Sylvania 73 or 74
- Fram: PH6022 or PH3614
- Mobil 1: M1-102
- Deutsch: D-364
- STP: S3614
- Bosch: 3330
- Super Tech: ST3614
- Radio Shack: 900-2391
- Seimens: V23073
- Bosch: 0 332 207 307
- NAPA: AR 634
- Car Quest: RY 620
- Borg Warner: R3223
- Orman: 68H-UA-007003
- Mopar: 56006846
- AC Delco: C1766
Spark Plug Caps
Brass Temperature Sensor Holder
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
- Harley Davidson: 27271-95 (runs about $40 compared to MGNAs $126)
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Copyright 2003 - Marina M. Gerson