Thevenot first saw Istanbul at dawn on 2 December 1655.
When his ship berthed at Galata he learnt that a large fire
which had broken out the day before had still not been
extinguished. He first lodged with a Flemish man named
Monsieur de la Roze, but a few days later rented a "pretty
house at Pera, which had a garden and a prospect into the
mouths of the two seas (the Golden Horn and the
Bosphorus)". He remarks that the Serraglio (Topkapi Palace) "affords a very pleasant prospect"
but is "very plain in respect of what the palace of so powerful a prince ought to be". At the entrance
to the harbour there is a kiosk (Yali Kösk) upon the quay built upon marble columns where "the
Grand Signior comes often to take the air" and to embark on excursions by boat. According to
Thevenot there were many other "Serraglios of private persons", beautifully appointed within but
ugly without. The hans reminded him of monasteries and were "well-built of stone", but the
dwellings of the inhabitants were "very ordinary and almost all of wood", which was the cause of
great havoc when fires broke out. Three large fires broke out during the eight months that Thevenot
spent in Istanbul, and 8000 houses burnt down in the fire which was blazing the day he arrived.
Thevenot relates the customs of Istanbul's inhabitants, their food and drink, costumes, medicines,
religion and beliefs, the customs of Ramazan, hospitality and love of
animals. Lady Montagu, wife of th
e English ambassador Edward Wortley
Montagu, lived in Istanbul from the spring of 1717 until the spring of the
following year. Her letters written to friends back in London are another
fascinating source of information. She tells us that Istanbul's cemeteries
were of greater extent than the city itself, and about the Greek antique
dealers who bought from Aleppo, Damascus and Cairo, and from whom
she purchased a marble bust and ordered an ancient Egyptian mummy.
She describes the Russian, Circassian and Georgian slaves in the slave
market as "miserable awkward wretches", and tells us how proud
Turkish women are of their large families of children.The houses warmed
"neither by chimneys nor stoves but by a certain machine called a
Tendour" containing hot ashes; and the Turks would "see their houses
burn with great philosphy" having rescued their possesions.From her letters we also learn about
the palace of Hafize Sultan the daughter of Mustafa II, her female slaves, an excursion which she
took with this princess, harem life, a journey she made to Kadiköy by caique, the waterfront
houses along the Bosphorus, and the delicious cool climate of a village in the Belgrade forest where
she spent the hot summer. In one of her letters she writes,
"Tis true, they wear veils in Pera, but they are such as only serve to show their beauty to
more advantage, and would not be per- mitted in Constantinople. These reasons deter
almost every creature from seeing it; and the French Ambassadress will return to France
without ever having been there... On the European (side) stands Constantinople, situated on
seven hills. The unequal heights make it seem as large again as it is, showing an agreeable
mixture of gardens, pine and cypress trees, palaces, mosques and public buildings, raised
one above another with as much beauty and appearance of symmetry as your ladyship ever
saw in a cabinet adorned by the most skilful hands."
In another letter to Lady Bristol she describes the visit of a bride-to-be to the hamam for ritual
ablutions before her wedding, and a beautiful woman murdered in Beyoglu.
Raczynski visited Istanbul a century later, on 9 August 1814. He describes the sights of the
Bosphorus, Besiktas, Üsküdar and Galata:
"Istanbul is not merely unique and unequalled in the sight
of artists. For a statesman, too, the city has qualities not
to be found in any other place in the world. Poseidon
granted privileges to the city which Byzas founded...
Towards evening I landed near Beyoglu. From here I
watched the shadows of the walls and palace towers fall
over the sea towards the shore of Anatolia. They seemed
to me like the shadows of the powerful Mehmed or Süleyman Magnificient."
Count Raczynski visited the Suleymaniye Mosque, Agakapisi Tower and meadow of Kagithane,
and wandered through streets examining the houses.He notes that Bahçekapi Caddesi was just
2.54 meters wide, and that the jettied upper storeys and eaves shaded the streets from the sun. It
vas not customary to ride in carriages within the city, even the sultan going on horseback. Only the
women of noble families rode in gilded carriages. He counted 45 streets in the Covered Bazaar,
where he found the shopkeepers so trusting that they left their shops unattended when they went to
the mosque for prayers, merely spreading a cloth over their wares. We learn about the silk
manufactory in the Binbirdirek Cistern, the coffee houses where the opium addicts congregated, he
ball given by the French ambassador at Ipsilanti Yali in Tarabya, the beauty and elegance of the
Greek women in their red fez with black tassels, and the amusement at Kagithane meadows, where
thousands of men and women flocked on holidays but sat in separate groups. Despite their veils the
Polish count vas able to discern that the women were very lovely from their "glowing eyes". He
watched horse races in the Hippodrome, and a cirit match (an equestrian game between two teams
in which short javelins are thrown) between the sultan's pages.
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