SOUTHEAST OF ANKARA

Founded in ancient times Kirsehir became, in the Middle Ages, the center of the Ahi Brotherhood, a Moslem sect whose moral and social ideals played an important role in the spiritual and political life of Anatolian towns. Among Kirsehir's many fine Seljuk buildings are the Cacabey Mosque of 1272 (a former astrological observatory), the Alaeddin Mosque of 1230, and the Ahi Evran Mosque beside which is the tomb of the founder of the Ahi sect. Out of town, on the road toward Kayseri, is the attractive Asik Pasa Mausoleum which was built during the period of Mongol rule, in 1333.

Within the surroundings of Kaman, in the province of Kirsehir, is the important archaeological centre of Kalehöyük, still being excavated. Near Kalehöyük in a center of Hatti and Hittite settlements, is located one of the largest parks in Turkey- Mikasonmiya Ani Bahcesi, which contains 16,500 trees of 33 different species.

The road to Nevsehir and Cappadocia passes through Hacibektas, the town where Haci Bektas Veli settled and established his Bektas Sufi order in the 14th century. The dervishes who followed the sect's tenets of love and humanism were housed in the monastery which includes a mausoleum and mosque. The complex is now a museum open to the public. Onyx, plentiful in the region, was used by the disciples of this order and has come to be called Hacibektas stone. In town there are many onyx souvenirs for sale. It is worth stopping to wander through the interesting Archaeological and Ethnographical Museum.

Nevsehir, a provincial capital, is the gateway to Cappadocia. In the town itself the hilltop Seljuk castle, perched on the highest point in the city, and the Kursunlu Mosque, built for the Grand vizier Damat Ibrahim Pasha, are among the remaining historical buildings. The mosque forms part of a complex of buildings which includes a medrese, a hospice and a library. An ablution fountain in the courtyard still bears its original inscription. The Nevsehir Museum displays local artifacts.

Violent eruptions of the volcanoes Mt.Erciyes (3916 meters) and Mt.Hasan (3268 meters) three million years ago covered the plateau surrounding Nevsehir with tufa, a soft stone comprised of lava, ash and mud. The wind and rain have eroded this brittle rock and created a spectacular surrealist landscape of rock cones, capped pinnacles and fretted ravines, in colors that range from warm reds and golds to cool greens and greys. Göreme, known in Roman times as Cappadocia, is one of those rare regions in the world where the works of man blend unobtrusively into the natural surroundings. Dwellings have been hewn from the rock as far back as 4,000 B.C. During Byzantine times chapels and monasteries were hollowed out of the rock, their ochre-toned frescoes reflecting the hues of the surrounding landscape. Even today troglodyte dwellings in rock cones and village houses of volcanic tufa merge harmoniously into the landscape.

Ürgüp, a lively tourist center at the foot of a rock riddled with old dwellings, serves as an excellent base from which to tour the sights of Cappadocia. In Ürgüp itself you can still see how people once lived in homes cut into the rocks. If you wish to buy carpets and kilims, there is a wide selection available from the town's many carpet dealers. These characters are as colorful as their carpets, offering tea, coffee or a glass of wine to their customers and engaging in friendly conversation. If sightseeing and shopping have not exhausted you, the disco welcomes you to another kind of entertainment. At the center of a successful wine-producing region, Ürgüp hosts an annual International Wine Festival in October.

Leaving Ürgüp and heading to the south, you reach the lovely isolated Pancarlik Valley where you can stop to see the 12th century church with its splendid frescoes, and the Kepez church which dates from the tenth century. Continuing on to the typical village of Mustafapasa (Sinasos), the traditional stone houses with carved and decorated facades evoke another age. Still travelling in a southerly direction, just past the village of Cemil, a footpath on the west side of the road leads to Keslik Valley where you will find a monastery complex and the Kara Kilise and Meyvali churches, both of which are decorated with frescoes. Back on the main road you come to the village of Taskinpasa where the 14th century Karamanid Mosque and Mausoleum Complex, and the remains of a medrese portal on the edge of town, make for a pleasant diversion. The next village is Sahinefendi where the 12th century Kirksehitler church, with beautiful frescoes, stands at the end of a footpath 500 meters east of the village.

Soganli, 50 km south of Ürgüp, is a picturesque valley of innumerable chapels, churches, halls, houses and tombs. The frescoes, from the 8th to the 13th century, trace the development of Byzantine painting.

Four kilometers north of Ürgüp is the wonderful Devrent Valley where the weather has eroded the stone into peaks, cones and obelisks called fairy chimneys.

Two kilometers to the west, in the Catalkaya Valley, the fairy chimneys have a peculiar mushroom-like shape, which has been adopted as a symbol of the town.

The Göreme Open-Air Museum, a monastic complex of rock churches and chapels covered with frescoes, is one of the best known sites in central Turkey. Most of the chapels date from the 10th to the 13th century, the Byzantine and Seljuk periods, and many of them are built on an inscribed cross plan with a central cupola supported by four columns. In the narthexes of several churches are rock cut tombs. Among the most famous of the Göreme churches are the Elmali Church, the smallest and newest of the group; the Yilanli Church with fascinating frescoes of the damned in serpent coils; the Barbara Church; and the Carikli Church. A short way from the main group, the Tokali (Buckle) Church, has beautiful frescoes depicting scenes from the New Testament.

The town of Göreme itself is set right in the middle of a valley of cones and fairy chimneys. Some of the cafes, restaurants and guest houses are carved into the rock. For shoppers, rugs and kilims are plentiful.

Continuing on the road out of Göreme, you enter one of the most beautiful valleys in the area. Rock formations seemingly out of a fantasy rise up before you at every turn and entice you to look longer and wonder at their creation. For those who climb the steps to the top of the Uchisar Fortress the whole region unfolds below. Rugs and kilims, and popular souvenirs can easily be purchased from the shops which line Uchisar's narrow streets.

At Cavusin, on the road leading north out of Göreme, you will find a triple apse church and the monastery of St.John the Baptist. In the town are chapels and churches, and some of the rock houses are still inhabited. From Cavusin to Zelve fairy chimneys line the road. Unfortunately, it is dangerous to visit the churches in the valley because erosion has undermined solid footing.

The charming town of Avanos, on the banks of the Kizilirmak River, displays attractive vernacular architecture and is known for its handicrafts. Every August the town hosts an Art and Tourism Festival where a creative and friendly atmosphere pervades. Pottery is the most popular handicraft and it is usually possible to try your hand at making a pot in one of the many studios. Rug weaving and knotting is also making a revival. Leaving Avanos in a southerly direction you come to an interesting Seljuk caravanserai.

On the Nevsehir-Ürgüp road you can not miss Ortahisar and its rock carved fortress. The churches in the Balkan Valley are some of the oldest in the Göreme region. In the neighboring Hallac Valley, the Hallac Monastery displays decorations from the 10th and the 11th centuries. North of Ortahisar, the Kizilcukur Valley is breathtakingly beautiful especially at sunset. In the valley is the 9th century Üzümlü church.

The underground cities of Kaymakli, Mazi, Derinkuyu and Özkonak were all used by the Christians of the seventh century, who were fleeing from persecution. They sheltered from the iconoclastic strife of Byzantium as well as other invasions in these safe and well hidden metropolises. A complete and self-sufficent environment, these cities included rooms for grain storage, stables, sleeping chambers, kitchens and air shafts. Today they are well-lit and an essential and fascinating part of a Cappadocian tour.

West of Avanos, Gülsehir has Hittite rock inscriptions, and nearby, at Gökcetepe, there is a bas-relief of Zeus. South on the Nevsehir road brings you to the 13th century church of St.John, and farther along is Aciksaray where the carved rocks hold churches and chapels.

West of Cappadocia, over the mountains, lies Kayseri, known as Caesarea in Roman times. The city spreads out at the foot of the extinct volcano Mt.Erciyes(3916 meters). In the winter months the ski center has excellent runs for downhill skiiers, and several pleasant hotels cater particularly to the skiers. Close to the Byzantine fortress the 13th century Huant Hatun Mosque and Medrese and the Mahperi Hatun Mausoleum comprise the first Seljuk complex in Anatolia. South of the complex stand the beautifully decorated Döner Kümbet of 1276, the Archaeological Museum and the Kösk Medrese, a Mongol building of classic simplicity. A major Seljuk city, Kayseri was an important center of learning and consequently there are many medreses among the remaining historical buildings. Those interested in the Seljuk architectural form should see the Cifte (Gìyasiye and Sifahiye) Medrese, the first Seljuk school of anatomy and the lovely Sahabiye Medrese. Near the city's bedestan is the restored 12th century Ulu Mosque. The Haci Kilic Mosque, north of the Cifte Medrese, dates from 1249.

South of Kayseri, in Develi, stand three more important Seljuk buildings: the Ulu Mosque, the Seyid-i Serif Tomb and the Develi Tomb. Nearby, the Sultan Marshes, the habitat of many species of bird, are of interest both to ornithologists and nature lovers.

North of Kayseri, Kültepe, known in ancient times as Kanesh or Karum was one of the earliest Hittite commercial cities. Dating from 2000 B.C., Kültepe was also one of the world's first cities of free trade. Today, however, only the foundations remain. Many of the finds can be examined in the Kayseri Archaeological Museum.

On the same road is Sultan Han, a caravanserai, built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in the early 13th century and a favorite stop for tourists.

Kapuzbasì Waterfall is 76 km south from Kayseri. In this beautiful natural site, seven different springs on the mountain -face fall from heights ranging between 30 and 70 meters.

Kayseri is one of the most important carpet and kilim production centres in Anatolia. Bünyan is the most famous carpet-production centre and Yahyali is the most famous kilim-production centre. Rugs woven in finely knotted floral patterns continue a centuries-old tradition. Local production can be purchased in any of the Kayseri carpet shops.

Nigde, the Nahita of Hittite times, lies in a valley flanked by volcanic peaks and commands the ancient trade route from Anatolia to the Mediterranean. Nigde's castle owes its present form to the Seljuks, and the elegant Alaeddin Mosque dates from the same period. From the 14th century era of Mongol rule are the Sungur Bey Mosque and the Hüdavend Hatun Mausoleum, an excellent example of the Anatolian tomb tower. The 15th century Ak Medrese now houses the Archaeological Museum.

Ten kilometers out of town is Eskigümüs, a Byzantine monastery and church with massive columns and frescoes. These frescoes, which date from the 10th and the 11th centuries, are among the best preserved in the region.

Bor, south of Nigde, was once a Hittite settlement. The town's historical buildings include the Seljuk Alaeddin Mosque and the Ottoman bedestan. Farther on, in the same direction, Kemerhisar is the site of the important Roman city of Tyana. A few more kilometers brings you to some Hittite ruins and a Roman aqueduct.

Most of the historical buildings in Aksaray, west of Nigde and south of Cappadocia, such as the Ulu Mosque, date from the 14th century. The Kìzìl Minaret, is noted for its attractive decorative brickwork. Two of the most famous caravanserais from the Seljuk period remain in the environs. Just 40 km west of the city is the well preserved Sultanhan Caravanserai built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat, and 15 km towards Nevsehir is the Agzìkarahan Caravanserai.

The Melendiz River, at Ihlara, has eroded the banks into an impressive canyon. Byzantine rock chapels covered with frescoes pierce the canyon walls. Some of the best known are the Agacaltì (Daniel) Church, the Yìlanlì (Apocalypse) Church and the Sümbüllü (Hyacinth) Church.

Güzelyurt is another valley with dwellings dating from prehistoric times. You can see the beautiful silhouette of Mt. Hasan rising like a crown above the town. The valley's underground cities, buildings carved carved into the rock, interesting vernacular architecture, churches, chapels and mosques embody all of the characteristics of Cappadocia and give visitors a sense of historical continuity. A popular tourist destination, Güzelyurt's hospitable residents, extensive accommodation and restaurants ensure a pleasant stay. The resting area of Evren by the Hirfanli Lake offers fish restaurants, beach and swimming.

SOUTH OF ANKARA

Konya, one of Turkey's oldest continuously inhabited cities was known as Iconium in Roman times. The capital of the Seljuk Turks from the 12th to the 13th century, it ranks as one of the great cultural centers of Turkey. During this period of artistic, political and religiousgrowth, the mystic Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi founded a Sufi Order known in the West as the Whirling Dervishes. The striking green tiled mausoleum of Mevlana is Konya's most famous building. Attached to the mausoleum the former dervish seminary serves now as a museum devoted to manuscripts of Mevlana's works and various artifacts related to the mysticisim of the sect. Every year, in the first half of December, this still active religious order holds a ceremony commemorating the Whirling Dervishes. The controlled, almost trance-like turning of the white robed men creates a mystical experience for the viewer.

Alaeddin Mosque, built on the site of the ancient citadel in 1220 during the reign of the great Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubat, commands Konya's skyline. To one side of the mosque are the scant remains of the Seljuk Imperial Palace. The Karatay Medrese, now a museum displays bold and striking Seljuk ceramics. On the other side of the mosque the Ince Minareli Medrese of 1258 is remarkable for its marvellous baroque Seljuk portal. Other Seljuk works include the Sircali Medrese and the Sahip Ata Complex.Visitors find Konya'. Archaeological Museum of exceptional interest. The collection of the Koyunoglu Museum is a varied one, and among its displays one is devoted to natural history while another to old kilims. Within the museum complex the restored Izzettin Koyunogluhouse illustrates the way of life of a prosperous Konya family.

Sille, 10 km north of Konya, has a Byzantine church and several rock chapels with frescoes. Aksehir, to the northwest, is known throughout Turkey as the birthplace of the 13th century humorist Nasrettin Hodja, whose mausoleum stands in the town. The 13th century Ulu Mosque and the Altinkale Mescidi are other monuments worth seeing; The Sahip Ata Mausoleum has been converted into the town's museum.

On the way south to Beysehir stop at Eflatun Pinar next to the lake to see this unusual Hittite monumental fountain. Several interesting Seljuk buildings are scattered around lovely Beysehir, on the shores of Turkey's 3rd largest lake, Beysehir Lake. Among the monuments are the Esrefoglu Mosque and Medrese, and the Kubad-Abad Summer Palace across the lake. Another medieval palace stands on Kizkalesi Island, opposite the Kubad-Abad palace. Haci Akif Island also offers relaxation and recreation to visitors.

Catalhöyük, 45 km south of Konya, is a fascinating Neolithic site dating from the eight millennium B.C., which makes it one of the world's oldest towns. Archaeologists have determined that holes in the roofs of the mud houses were the entrance doors. Ankara's Museum of Anatolian Civilizations houses the famous temple (re-constructed), along with mother-goddess figures and Neolithic frescoes from the original site.

Surrounding Karapinar, 96 km east of Konya, are numerous crater lakes; the most famous is the lovely Meke Crater Lake, 7 km southeast of Karapinar. On the north side of the road to Eregli, 8 km from karapinar, lies Aci Crater Lake.

At Ivriz, a Hittite site 168 km east of Konya, you can see one of Turkey's finest neo-Hittite reliefs of a king and fertility god.

Karaman, once the capital of the Karamanid Emirate, was the first Turkish state to use Turkish, not Persian, as the official language. Fittingly, Yunus Emre, the first great poet to write in Turkish, lived here in the13th century. The surrounding fortresses date from Seljuk times, although the town's most significant buildings, the Araboglu, Yunus Emre and Aktekke Mosques and the Hatuniye Medrese, were all built during the Karamanid reign.

Derbe, 30 km north of Karaman, at the foot of the extinct volcano Mt. Karadag (2288 m), was an important early Christian settlement; St. Paul came here to preach.

Visitors can still see the remains of churches and chapels at Madensehir, 45 km from Karaman, on the northern slope of Mt. Karadag. Church remains and Hittite inscriptions have been discovered on the top of the mountain.

Near Taskale, 48 km east of Karaman, on the rocky northern slope of Yesildere Valley, are the remains of the fascinating, historical city of Manazan. Built during Byzantine times, the entire city of narrow lanes, houses, squares, storage facilities, chapels and cemeteries (occupying an area approximately three kilometers long and five stories high) was carved into the rocky hillside of the valley. Today parts of the city are still used for wheat storage.

South of Karaman up a steep narrow road are the remains of a beautiful Byzantine monastery, Alahan. Much still stands, and there is some fine stone carving to admire. This magnificient location offers a breathtaking view.