The Southeastern Anatolian Region, with its very rich history and cultural heritage, as shown in its magnificent historical sites, is well worth visiting. Its history begins around 7000 B.C. came the Hurris, who were to be followed by the Hittites sometime around 1200 B.C.
In the sacred land which encircles the Fìrat (Euphrates) and the Dicle (Tigris) rivers, the Grandfather of Religion,Ibrahim (Abraham) the Prophet lived. Ibrahim was born in Ur, now called Sanlì Urfa, and later moved south from the city of Ur to Harran, through the south. In Harran, which was an important Mesopotamian historic and cultural center, the ruins of one of the largest and Islamic universities can be seen among the archaeological remains.
When you travel from the south to the north over the Mesopotamian plains, the first high mountain to be seen is the picturesque Mount Nemrut, with the Mausoleum of the Commagene King Antiochos at its 2150-meter peak.
The most important areas of the region are Diyarbakìr,
whose city walls are a superb example of medieval military architecture; Mardin,
with its unique architecture; and Gazi Antep, a large trade and
industrial center which contains the remains of late Hittite cities.
The Atatürk Dam lake is planned to be the region's holiday and water-sports center. There are many beaches along the shore of the lake, and a holiday under the Mesopotamian sun will be a memorable experience.
The Southeastern Anatolian Project is Turkey's largest and most multifaceted development project, and also, one of the largest development projects in the world. The project includes active farming with extensive irrigation systems and electricity production, alongside of which are the tourism, mining, petrol, education, health, communication, industry and transport sectors.
The Southeastern Anatolia Project covers the lower parts of the Fìrat and Dicle rivers; and Gazi Antep, Sanlì Urfa, Adìyaman, Diyarbakìr, Mardin, Siirt, Batman and Sìrnak, which are situated on the plains between the rivers. This project will also bring with it a change in climate in the area.
The Atatürk Dam and Hydroelectric Plant, the largest in Turkey and the sixth largest in the world, is situated in the Bozova town of Sanlì Urfa. Atatürk Dam, which is the major foundation of the Southeastern Anatolia Project, is importantnot only for energy production but also for irrigation.
The water obtained from the reservoirs of the Atatürk Dam on the Fìrat river is going to be carried to the Harran plain by the Sanlì Urfa Tunnel System. The Sanlì Urfa Tunnel System is the largest in the world, in view of its length and flow rate. The waters of the Fìrat river will pass through tunnels which are 26.4 kilometers in length and 7.62 meters in diameter, and be distributed to the vast cropland on the Southeastern Anatolian plains from central and side channels, bringing a production boom and prosperity to the region. As of late 1994, the tunnel system is opened and the waters of the Fìrat are flowing to the Harran plain.
To travel along Turkey's southern border, take the highway which connects Gazi Antep, Sanlì Urfa and Mardin to Syria and Iraq.
Gazi Antep, located on a wide and fertile plain cultivated with extensive olive groves and vineyards, produces a variety of agricultural crops. It is especially known throughout Turkey for its excellent pistachios. Industry also contributes to the local economy. The 36 towers of the city's fortress were originally constructed in the Justinian era and were later rebuilt by the Seljuks. The Archaeological Museum has important items from Neolithic, Hittite, and Roman times. The Hasan Süzer House, from the turn of the century, has been beautifully restored and houses the Etnographical Museum. The artisans of Gazi Antep specialize in copper-ware and furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl. The kitchens produce some of the best "lahmacun"-a delicious pizza topped with spicy meat and herbs, and baklava, a honey and nut pastry.
West of Gazi Antep, the Dülük forest makes a good day's outing, or you can stay overnight in the camp site. In the woods, stroll through the Dülük archaeological site, which dates back to prehistoric times. A Hittite sculpting school was centered inYesemek, where the 200 works of art on view reveal the beauty of Hittite art. Next to the Syrian border, on the banks of the Fìrat river, Kargamìs, once a late Hittite capital, is another important archaeological site. The site's finds, including immense bas reliefs, have been moved to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara.
The ruins of Belkìs (Zeugma) are on the borders of Nizip. it has a mound which has been turned into a citadel. The mosaics from the Roman period are well worth seeing.
In the 12th century B.C., Kahraman Maras was the capital of the Hittite state of Gurgum. A massive citadel built in the 2nd century B.C. houses the city's museumand its good collection of Hittite sculptures. Other sites include the 15th century Ulu Mosque and the Tas Medrese. The ice-cream of Kahraman Maras, thickened with gum arabic and beaten with a wooden paddle, is known throughout Turkey.
Adìyaman's Archaeological Museum houses regional finds
from the Lower Fìrat which date from the Neolithic and
Chalcolithic ages. Good-quality kilims woven in bright colors
sell for
reasonable prices in the bazaar. Surrounding monuments include the ruins
of an Abbasid citadel (restored by the Seljuks) and a 14th-century
Ulu Mosque. The discovery of an oil in the region has brought
prosperity to Adìyaman. Adìyaman and Kahta (which
has good accommodation and camping facilities), make good bases
from which to visit Nemrut Dagì National Park. You can
hire transportation in either town. On the summit of Nemrut Dagì
(Mount Nemrut), at an altitude of 2150 meters- the highest mountain
in Northern Mesopotamia-sits the gigantic funerary sanctuary erected
in the first century B.C. by King Antiochus I of Commagene. The
engineering involved in creating the artificial tumulus-flanked
by terraces on which rest the colossal statues of Apollo, Zeus,
Heracles, Tyche and Antiochus-continues to amaze visitors. Time
has inflicted heavy damage on the sculptures; their torsos sit
with their beautifully carved heads at their feet.
At ancient Eskikale (Arsameia of Nymphaios) a magnificent relief depicts Heracles greeting the Commagene king, Mithridates, in the ruins of what scholars believe might have been the Commagene Palace. Opposite this site, separated by the Eski Kahta river are the remains of the Yenikale (New Castle) built by the Mamluks. Other nearby sights include the Roman bridge at Cendere and another Commagene royal tumulus, Karakus.
In the great plain of High Mesopotamia, Sanlì Urfa, known
in ancient times first as Ur and later as Edessa, proudly exhibits
the legacy of all the civilizations that have prospered in this
region. In the second millennium B.C., it was a city of a Hurrite
state. Tradition relates that Abraham was born in a cave near
where the Mevlid Halil Mosque now stands. Today the cave is a
pilgramage site and flocks of pigeons do not seem to disturb the
elderly men praying around the entrance. The remains of a castle
with two Ione Corinthian columns rising above the ruined walls,
stands atop a small crest. At the foot of the hills, the lovely
Halil Rahman Mosque is built around a quiet pool in which sacred
carp swim. The 17th-century Ottoman Rìdvaniye Mosque and
the Fìrfìrlì Mosque, formerly the Church
of the Apostles, are worth a detour. The archaeological and ethnographical
museum, one of the best in Turkey, houses important Neolithic
and Chalcolithic finds from the Lower Fìrat region. To
capture the spirit of Sanlì Urfa, wander through the vaulted
eastern bazaar and linger in the courtyards of the old hans (inns);
try to find Gümrük Hanì and Barutcu Hanì-
they are the most interesting.
Believed to be the ancient city of the same name mentioned in the Old Testament, Harran is known more now for its unusual beehivedwellings than as the place where Abraham spent several years of his life. The archaeological remains include those of the largest ancient Islamic University, city walls dating from the 8th century, four gates and a citadel. The Gap project will transform Harran into one of the most fertile areas in Turkey.
Birecik, 80 km west of Sanlì Urfa, straddles the Fìrat river, its skyline dominated by the town's citadel. A good place to take a break, there is good accommodation and camping facilities here.
Diyarbakir, known in ancient times as Amida, spreads across a basalt plateau close to the banks of the Dicle river. The black basalt triple walls, which encircle the old town give the city a rather ominous appearance. These ramparts, 5.5 km in length, with 16 keeps and 5 gates, inscriptions and bas-reliefs, represent a superb example of medieval military architecture. The Ulu Mosque, built by the Seljuk Sultan Melik Shah, is notable for its original plan, and for its utilisation of Byzantine and more ancient architectural materials. The mihrab of the nearby Mesudiye Medrese is made of the local black basalt. The Nebii Mosque represents the typical Ottoman mosque style, while the Safa Mosque exhibits Persian influences in its tiled minaret. The third-century Aramaic Church of the Virgin Mary (Meryemana Kilisesi), which is still in use today, makes an interesting visit. For an example of early domestic architecture, stop at the restored home of the writer Cahit Sìtkì Tarancì.
The Deliller Han (1527) by the Mardin Gates, converted and refurbished into a hotel, recreates the atmosphere of the days when trading caravans stopped in Diyarbakìr. Just outside the city walls, by the river, stands Atatürk's house, now a museum. South of town at Dicle Bridge, built in 1065, you can take a great photograph of the Dicle River, the bridge and the city walls.
In Silvan, 77 km east of Diyarbakìr you should stop at the graceful Ulu Mosque dating from 1185, to admire the fine flowing lines of stone-relief work that outline the pointed arch portal.
Cayönü, one of the earliest Neolithic settlements yet discovered, dates from the 7th millennium B.C.
From a distance, the golden stones of Mardin's houses blend into the rock of the hills on which the city is built. On closer inspection, the stone carving and decoration of the houses and public buildings reveals the city as an architectural treasure chest. Among the jewels are the ancient citadel and several mosques, in particular, Ulu Mosque. The 15th-century Kasìm Pasha Medrese is remarkable for its fine stonework. At the lovely Isa Bey Medrese from the 14th century, you can admire the magnificently carved portal and climb to its roof to enjoy the fantastic view over the Mesopotamian Plain.
Only 7 kilometers east of Mardin is the Syriac-Jacobite Monastery of Deyrülzaferan, which once was a thriving religious community. Nearby at Kìzìltepe, the 13th century Ulu Mosque, one of the best examples of Artukid architecture , has superb mihrab reliefs and a beautiful portal.
Midyat, famous for its silver objects known as "telkari", has many elegant, historic houses. Eighteen kilometers east of town, the actively functioning Syriac-Jacobite monastery, Deyrelumur (San Gabriel, dates from the beginning of the fifth century.
Batman is Turkey's most important oil-producing center, and oil wells pumping the precious fuel dot the the surrounding area. North of Batman, the Malabadi Bridge built in 1147, spans the Batman river. Undisturbed by time, peaceful waters still reflect the widest single-arch bridge of its day. Two guard towers ensured the bridge's security.
At Hasankeyf are the ruins of the 12th-century capital of the Artukids. The bridge which once spanned the Dicle and connected the two parts of the city and the ruined palace inside the citadel, evokes the ghosts of a vanished dynasty. The 15th- century Zeynel Bey Mausoleum, attractively decorated with turquoise tiles, reveals Persian influences.
Siirt was an especially eminent city at the time of the Abbasid Caliphate. Among the city's monuments, be sure to visit the 12th-century Seljuk Ulu Mosque and the 13th-century Asakir Carsì Mosque. At Aydìnlar, only 6 km from Siirt, the Ibrahim Hakkì Mausoleum Complex and nearby private Ibrahim Hakkì Astronomical Museum are worthy of close examination. Siirt produces fine and large pistachio nuts and is known as well for its excellent goat-hair blankets and kilims.
Sìrnak, on the north face of Mount Cudi (2114 M), derives its name from the Moslem belief that Noah's Ark landed on this holy mountain: Sìr-City, Nak-Noah. Forty-five kilometersfrom Sìrnak, Cizre is the supposed location of his tomb.