Turkey's lush, humid and ubiquitously green Black Sea Coast surprises those who imagine the country to be nothing but barren steppes. From Turkey's European border with Bulgaria to the Georgian border, dense pine forests cover the mountain tops; lush vegetation and bountiful crops grow in the lower elevations and valleys. Along the long coastline, mile after mile of beautiful uncrowded beaches offer sun , swimming and relaxation. In the spring time, delicate white flower blossoms carpet especially the rolling meadows in the hills of the Eastern Black Sea Coast. Throughout the region, fishing villages and mountain hamlets alike preserve their indigenous and traditional wooden architectural styles. The humid climate and fertile soil encourage the cultivation of a variety of produce, including tea, tobacco, corn and hazelnuts.

Archaeological excavations have uncovered evidence of the region's earliest inhabitants in the early Bronze Age settlements at Ikiztepe, in Samsun Province. The Hittites, Miletians, Phrygians and according to Homer, the Amazons all colonized parts of the coast. Alexander the Great, too, in his world conquest, brought the region under his sovereignty. Eventually it was incorporated into the Roman and Byzantine Empires. The 15th century saw the greater part of the area come under the Ottoman rule of Sultan Mehmet II.

The Black Sea is easily accessible to tourists and provides a wide range of hotels and restaurants at a variety of price ranges.

THE WESTERN BLACK SEA COAST

The holiday town of Igneada near the Bulgarian border is in the Thracian province, 98 km from the provincial capital of Kìrklareli. The Istranca Mountains rise up behind sandy beaches, along which delightful fish restaurants, a large number of hotels and guest houses cater to town's visitors.

Also on the European Black Sea coast,Kilyos, only 35 km from Istanbul, offers sandy beaches, good hotels, motels and camping facilities.

Across the Bosphorus, on the Asian shore, Sile's long sandy beaches, overlooked by the remains of a genoese Castle, attract many visitors. The excellent restaurants and night life make it a popular weekend retreat for Istanbul residents. Cotton blouses and shirts (Sile Bezi) are sewn and embroidered here.

Originally founded by a Polish prince as a home for Polish exiles, Polonezköy has been transformed into a relaxing resort with guest houses and restaurants which serve a delicious selection of fresh local produce. Inland from the coast, the rolling hills and peaceful woods make an excellent area for horseback riding.

Agva, on the banks of a river as well as on the shores of the Black Sea, is surrounded by lovely scenery; it is ideal for a camping holiday. Kerpe, Kefken and Karasu, three quaint fishing villages, lie east of Agva. Delightful restaurants and limpid waters ensure a constant stream of visitors.

Inland, on the Ankara-Istanbul road, Bolu is an important provincial center with an impressive 14th-century Ulu Mosque and nearby, modern thermal facilities. Southwest of Bolu, the popular and comfortable Lake Abant resort is set in lovely alpine surroundings at an altitude of 1500 meters. Istanbul dwellers often escape to the lake for a weekend of fresh air and exercise.

Kartalkaya, in the area's Köroglu Mountains, is one of Turkey's major ski resorts. In the summer you can stop for a picnic at Gölcük Lake. The breathtakingly beautiful Yedi Göller (Seven Lakes) National Park lies north of Bolu. Nearby, the town of Mengen has a reputation for its good cooks and holds the annual Festival of Chefs in August, featuring traditional Turkish specialities.

The sites around Konuralp, the ancient Prusa ad Hypium, continue to yield artifacts from both the Roman and Byzantine periods, which are displayed in the local museum. Among the ruins, the Roman theatre is not to be missed.

The lovely beach, comfortable guest-houses and hotels at Akcakoca ensure that it remains a popular holiday resort. Near the town, you can explore the remains of a Genoise castle set amid hazelnut groves.

Alaplì is an ideal place for water-sports, especially sailing and surfing. From the town, long sandy beaches stretch both east and west.

Eregli, whose ancient name was Heraklea ad Pontus, stands on a hill adjacent to a former Byzantine castle. In the spring, the aroma of strawberries-some of the sweetest grown in Turkey-fills the air and makes a visit a mouth-watering experience. Eregli derives its name from the mythological demi-god, Hercules, who, in his 11th labor, caught the three-headed dog, Cerberus-the guardian of the gates of hell. According to Xenophon, Cerberus resided in the cave Cehennemagzì (Entrance to Hell), outside of Eregli near Kavakderesi.

Zonguldak, a major center of coal production, is an important Black Sea port. The scenic road on the east side of town leads to the areas of Kopuz and Uzunkum, where tea-gardens and restaurants invite tourists to spend a leisurely afternoon.

Connoisseurs travel to Devrek, a pretty town 50 km southeast of Zonguldak, to purchase the renowned wooden walking-sticks.

Also inland and further to the east, Safranbolu is an open-air museum of traditional Turkish architecture. The castle on the hill offers a good vista of the town; be sure to see the Cinci Inn and hamam (Turkish bath), the Izzet Pasha Mosque and Library, and the Köprülü Mosque which all date from the17th century. In the arasta (old bazaar), you can watch craftsmen at work and bargain with them for their goods. Safranbolu's lokum, or Turkish Delight, has an especially refined quality.

Bartin, a pretty city of timbered houses, holds a strawberry festival every year in the spring. The remains of a Roman road dating to the reign of the Emperor Claudius can still be seen. A boat trip on the Bartin river makes a delightful excursion.

Nearby Inkum has been developed into a holiday village offering a sandy beach, restaurant and guest houses.

Amasra, one of the most beautiful towns on the Black Sea coast, was called Sesamos in ancient times, when it was founded by the Miletians in the sixth century B.C. It stands on a peninsula split by two inlets. The eastern side enjoys a reputation for good swimming. On a rocky promontory rise the ramparts of the Byzantine citadel, inside of which is an old church,now the Fatih Mosque. The necropolis dates from the Roman period. Remnants from Amasra's entire history are displayed in the Archaeological Museum. You can purchase a hand-carved wooden souvenir on Cekiciler street. Continuing eastwards along the coast, you arrive at Cakraz, a typical fishing village with excellent beaches, friendly accommodation and restaurants. The winding road between Cakraz and Inebolu climbs steep mountainsides and offers a spectacular panoramic view.

Kurucasile, after Cakraz, is a town known for its manufacture of fishing boats. Twenty-eight more kilometers bring you to Cide, where good hotels and a pleasant beach provide comfort and relaxation. Gideros Bay will make you think a dream has come true.

A typical Black Sea town set in lush greenery, Inebolu has many fine examples of traditional Turkish architecture. East of Inebolu, Abana is an agreeable holiday center.

Situated inland amid beautiful forests, the provincial center of Kastamonu has preserved its important monuments: the 12th century Byzantine castle, the 13th-century Atabey Mosque and the Ibni Neccar Mosque of 1356. The Archaeological and Etnographic Museum displays artifacts found in the region. Near the town is Evkaya, a rock tomb dating from the sixth century B.C. In the village of Kasaba, the 14th-century Mahmut Bey Mosque retains some of the finest wood carvings found anywhere in Turkey. 41 km west of Kastamonu via Daday, Cömlekciler village has traditional timber houses, and farms offering country horseback riding-tours.

63 km south of Kastamonu, the road brings you to Ilgaz National Park, a delightful protected area which includes the Ilgaz Mountains; a ski center possesses good accommodation. In Tosya, east of the park by the Devrez and Kizilirmak rivers, extensive rice fields cover the landscape.

Ilgarini Cave, in the region of Pinarbasi (in the northwest corner of Kastamonu Province), is one of the largest caves in Turkey. It is a wonderful place for treks and explorations off the beaten track.

THE EASTERN BLACK SEA COAST

Sinop is one of the most beautiful natural harbors of the Black Sea. Founded in the seventh century by Miletian colonists, it is the birthplace of the third-century philosopher, Diogenes the Cynic. The town's citadel and the foundations of a temple dedicated to Serapis date from this period. The Archaeological Museum exhibits several beautiful golden icons. Other important monuments include the 13th century Alaeddin Mosque and the Alaiye Medrese. Excellent fish restaurants along the charming fisherman's wharf serve tasty meals; brightly colored boats bob in the water and complete the picturesque setting. Sinop is also known for its traditional nautical wood carvings. Seaside hotels and holiday villages provide accommodation in all price ranges. Some 35 km to the southwest, high in the mountains, lie the yaylas (mountain plateaus) of Guzfindik and Bozarmut. At an elevation of 1350 meters , these green pastures with their summer residents offer a glimpse into a traditional way of life.

Gerze, 40 km east along the coast, is situated on a peninsula and is surrounded by parks and beaches.

Continuing on the coastal road, you arrive at Yakakent, a fishing village with clean sandy beaches. Camgölü, a large forest which slopes to the sea, has camping sites, guest facilities and restaurants.

Turning inland, the road takes you to Bafra, a town famous for its tobacco, caviar and thermal springs. Its 13th-century hamam and 15th-century mosque-mausoleum-medrese complexare sights worth visiting. Ikiztepe, 7 km northeast of Bafra, an archaeological site from the early Bronze Age has revealed much of Black Sea regional history. The artifacts, of which the jewellry is especially important, are kept in the Samsun Museum.

Samsun, a modern industrial city, serves as a major port for the whole area - a position it has held for centuries. Products from all over the region are exported from this city, which annually hosts the Samsun Trade and Industrial Fair. Samsun found itself at the center of the Turkish War of Independence on May 19, 1919, when Atatürk landed here to organize the defense of Anatolia. The Atatürk Museum houses many objects and documents relating to the war, and an equestrian statue honoring the founder of the Republic stands prominently in the city park. The 14th-century Pazar Mosque and the 19th-century Büyük Mosque reflect two different Turkish architectural styles and make an interesting comparison.

The Archaeological Museum, in addition to the finds from Ikiztepe, displays artifacts from Amisos, as Samsun was known in ancient times , and Dündartepe.

Ünye, a charming little port, is one of the nicest holiday towns of the eastern Black Sea and justly boasts of its excellent beaches and camping facilities. Do not miss the extraordinary 18th-century town hall.

After Fatsa, another holiday town on the road to Ordu, the ruins of the Byzantine Jason Church, now a museum, stand on the Camburnu promontory. Legend relates that the Argonauts landed here on their quest for the Golden Fleece. Fish restaurants serving the finest tea found in the region dot the 50-km scenic road to Ordu. Sea snails, a regional speciality, are particularlydelicious at Yaliköy.

Returning from the Babylon campaign, the survivors of Xenephon's Ten Thousand left Anatolia from Ordu in their retreat to Greece. Today it is a beautiful port situated at the foot of a forested hill. In the Pashaoglu Konak (mansion), now the Ethnographical Museum, you glimpse how a rich and influential 19th-century famely lived. Hazelnut production centers around Ordu, and every September the town hosts the Golden Hazelnut Festival. Be sure to sample the delicious chocolate nut candy. It is worth spending some time at an 18th-century church 2 km from town, and the pretty beach of Güzelyali is worth visiting. Fifty-eight kilometers to the south, at an altitude of 1250 meters, the yayla (plateau) of Cambasi offers beautiful mountain views. The yayla of Keyfalan, at 2000 meters, is another popular summer destination for local residents.

The ruins of a Byzantine fortress offer a wonderful panorama of Giresun. It was from this city, ancient Cerasos, that the Roman general Lucullus exported the first cherry trees to Europe. An 18th-century church makes a short visit worthwhile. Outside of town, Giresun Island is said to have once belonged to the Amazons. A ruined temple supports this theory. The Aksu Art and Culture Festival is a yearly event in May. To get off the beaten track, take an excursion to the high mountain yaylas of Bektas or Kümbet.

Between Giresun and Trabzon, squeezed between wooded mountains and the Black Sea waters, Kesap, Tirebolu, Görele, Vakfikebir and Akcaabat enjoy a growing tourist industry. Görele offers delicious, submarine-shaped meat and cheese "pitas"; Vakfikebir offers the best butter, and Akcaabat offers the best köfte (meat rolls).

Trabzon, the major city of the region, was founded in the 7th century B.C. by Miletian colonists, and it was at the center of the Comnene Empire established after the fall of Byzantine Istanbul. The exiled Byzantine court ruled until 1461, when the Ottomans conquered the area. The restored 13th-century Byzantine church, used for centuries as a mosque and now the Ayasofya Museum, is the jewel of Trabzon's monuments. Splendid frescoes, some of the finest examples of Byzantine painting, cover every surface of the interior church walls. Several other churches were converted to mosques, such as the Fatih Mosque and the Yeni Cuma Mosque. The Ottoman Gülbahar Mosque, a typical provincial-style building, is set in a lovely tea-garden.

Wooden houses fill the old quarter in the ancient fortifications, and it still retains the spirit of a medieval town. The house in which Atatürk stayed has been made into a museum.

Boztepe Park on the hills above Trabzon, offers a beautiful view of the city and the coastline. On the western slopes of Boztepe Hill stands the Irene Tower, built by Empress Irene of Trabzon in 1340. Just east of the city, the village of Sürmene has an impressive 19th-century mansion known as the Kastel. Near Trabzon, south of Akcaabat, lovely highland meadows - Karadag, Hidirnebi and Erikbeli - are ideal hiking and picknicking grounds. The road inland from Trabzon winds through spectacular mountain landscape before reaching the Zigana Tunnel, the longest in Turkey. Nearby, Hamsiköy, a charming mountain village, has gained a national reputation for its excellent cuisine (including the best rice puding), and is also conveniently near the Zigana Ski Center. Beautiful meadows and highland pastures (Gürgenagac Yaylasi, Kirazli Yaylasi and Solma Yaylasi) are ideal sites for outdoor activities and picnics. The traditional Kadirga Festival celebrates the annual summer migration to the high mountain pastures.

Altindere National Park provides a magnificent setting for the 14th-century Sumela Monastry, perched on a cliff face 270 meters above a deep gorge. Surrounded by the ruins of the monks' dwellings, the church is covered inside and out with brilliant frescoes. Southeast of Trabzon, Uzungöl, a lovely alpine lake surrounded by mountains and meadows is an excellent camping, trekking and fishing area; its restaurants make it the best place for eating river-trout.

Gümüshane, on the ancient trade route between Trabzon and Iran, was once of considerable importance. Many elegant buildings from that period still remain. Set amid fruit groves and wild roses,the town makes a natural stopping point between Trabzon and Erzurum. Take the opportunity to try the local rose-hip syrup and marmalade.

Bayburt, the newly designated provincial capital, lies on the Silk Road. Marco Polo and the inveterate Turkish traveller Evliya Celebi both passed through this town. The remains of a Byzantine castle, important mosques, Turkish baths and fascinating carved tombstones are among Bayburt's significant monuments.

Rize, 75 km east of Trabzon, is built on a mountain slope and covered with tea bushes which look like puffy green pillows. Be sure to see this typical Black Sea city's 16th-century Islam Pasha Mosque and the remains of a Genoese castle. From Ziraat Park you can take in a splendid panorama of the whole area. A lightweight summer cloth of good quality and printed with colorful patterns comes from the Rize area. During the Summer Tea festival you can purchase the best blend of Black Sea tea. Turning inland after Ardesen, on the road leading east from Rize, you come to the beautiful little town of Camlihemsin straddling a rushing stream. Nearby is the Firtina Vadisi (Valley of Storms) with the beautiful Zir Castle, and stone bridges from Byzantine times. After walking around Ayder's rolling meadows, you can relax in one of the many hot-springs.

For those who like mountain climbing, this is the best starting-point for scaling the Kackar Mountains. This emerald range is one of the best and the most challenging for climbers, in Turkey. South of rizeon the Kackar mountains, Anzer village offers the world-famous and healthful Anzer honery, and it is a nice area for trekking and for its botany.

East and west of Rize; Cayeli, Pazar, Ardesen, Of and Findikli all enjoy a sub-tropical climate, lush green settings and traditional chalets. The Camburnu coast is covered with golden pine trees; many species of migrating birds stop-over here, and it is a lovely area for resting and for taking pictures.

Hopa, an attractive town at the foot of a forested mountain, is the last port before the Turkish-Georgian border. The international boundary actually divides the village og Sarp. The road to Artvin traverses the Cankurtaran mountain-pass, where the verdent landscape changes to barren rocks.

A winding drive mid-way up a mountainside takes you to Artvin, the capital of its province. At the foot of the escarpment, a ruined 16th-century castle crowns a rocky outcrop. Artvin is a charming city with beautiful old Turkish houses, typical of the region. The area's mild climate makes summer visits delightfully refreshing and every June, crowds of tourists, as well as brightlyclad locals, throng to the Kafkasör festival, where the spectacle of bulls fighting each other highlights the celebration. The adventurous might like to attempt white-water rafting on the wild, romantic Coruh River. In the Artvin area, the nature-reserves around the Karagöl Lakes, 27 km northeast of Borcka and 17 km north of Savsat respectively, have different kinds of pine trees, flora and fauna, including black and brown bears.

During the Middle Ages this area came under Georgian sovereignty. The Artvin area is the best place for touring remains of the Georgian past; its wonderfully scenic roads lead to the ruined churches and settlements that stand as the legacy of this period. The best-preserved of these are at Barhal and Ishan, in the awesome Kackar Mountains. Barhal offers some of the best country horseback-riding. Several other churches, in Bagbasi and Camliyamac, are just off the road to Erzurum, which passes by the Tortum Waterfalls and the pristine Tortum Lake. Near Yusufeli are other Georgian churches and settlements: Dörtkilise, Köprügören and Tekkale. East of Artvin, Ardanuc, formerly the Georgian capital, has a famous castle, which overlooks the longest canyon in the region.

East from Artvin is Savsat, an alpine village surrounded by meadows of wild flowers and butterflies, rushing streams and quaint chalets. The local women's organization has established a weaving-instruction center, in an attempt to keep the indigenous carpet and kilim traditions alive. Bilbilan is another important yayla and popular summer residence in the region. You will find the people of this region exceptionally welcoming and helpful.

Publication Date : 07/28/95 5:49 PM

Source Document  : Ministry Of Tourism Republic Of Turkey