Making the story of 'O' ring.


1/1/97

This project was my first time working with silver. I made the ring as a gift for a friend, but I took pictures so that I could remember it after I gave it away. I have had two similar rings made for me in the past, but the person who made them has been unreliable lately. This combined with my feeling that making a gift for someone is much more special than buying one spawned this project.

The ring is made of sterling silver with an alexandrite set in the top. It's synthetic alexandrite due to the extremely high price of natural stones (they're very rare and more expensive than diamonds). The synthetic stone is chemically identicle to a natural stone (beryllium aluminum oxide) and maintains its color changine properties. Alexandrite changes color from green to purple (and in between) depending on whether it's viewed under natural or artificial, direct or indirect light.


The ring is make from several pieces, the band, hoop, and setting. I used my dremel to cut a 0.6" wide strip with a length slightly larger than the circumference of the ring from a piece of 20 gauge silver sheet. The silver sheet was soft enough that I was able to slowly wrap it around a sizing mandrel by hand. Then I got to the ends and I didn't have enough leverage so I had to use needle nose pliers to finish. I made the hoop from 12 gauge silver wire which I wrapped around a sharpie permanent marker (which seemed to be about the right size) into a spiral. I located the most round full turn in the spiral and cut it out with my dremel. The setting was made from three parts, a piece of 1/4 inch diameter silver tubing and two hollow silver beads which I cut to make the reflector and the top piece which holds the stone in place. Since the stone is essentially transparent, the reflector which is a conical piece of silver is placed underneath to help reflect light back out of the stone. The top piece was cut from a doughnut shaped silver bead.


After forming the band it needed to be soldered. Silver solder comes in various temperature grades: Hard, Medium, Easy and Extra-easy. The theory is that you start with Hard (the highest temperature) and work your way down through the grades as you work on various parts of the piece so that you don't accidently reflow the joints that you've already soldered. Well, perhaps I should have been concerned that the opposite of hard was easy, not soft. As in difficult - because it was extremely difficult to work with. I was having a lot of trouble heating the work enough with my oxy-propane torch to melt the hard solder. At one point I actually ended up melting the silver before the solder! There I was with a pile of silver slag with a solid piece of solder sitting on top. So, I switched to medium and had much less trouble. Even then it wasn't particularly easy, I've been soldering for about twelve years (but only rescently with a torch) but I still had the most amazing pile of solder caked up by the time I had it everywhere I wanted. I had to spend quite a bit of time grinding with my dremel to bring it back to its correct shape. Surprizingly you can't even tell in the finished piece which I attribute to my skill with a dremel (if only my skill with a torch was as good). The picture above is of me drilling the hole in the setting through which the hoop will pass.


After the soldering and grinding it was time to polish. The greenish lump on the left is the polishing compound.


After that I set the stone. Before I soldered the setting onto the band I drilled a hole through the band so that the stone could be pushed in from the bottom. Once the jem was aligned properly I filled the setting with white epoxy putty which you can see oozing from the holes on the sides in the picture. After it set I re-drilled the hole for the hoop through the solid putty.


I slipped the hoop in and gave it a twist to close it. I wrapped a piece of wet paper towel and a strip of metal over the jem to protect it from the heat of soldering the hoop.


After grinding and polishing the hoop, we're done!

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