From t7001@yahoo.com Fri Jul 19 20:23:34 2002 From: t7001@yahoo.com (to to) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:23:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [SlideCube] cube projector question Message-ID: <20020719192334.58167.qmail@web12505.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I just bought a used cube projector autofocus bell and howell Reverse does not work at all just clicks and slide moves a little. Forward works, but turntable moves slowly. Sounds like it might stop at any time. I ran 4 or 5 cubes, and then even in forward, it was stopping in between slides. I turned it off for a while. Now forward works as before, but turntable turns slowly. But it works I ran about 20 cubes. Reverse still doesn't work. Is this a serious problem? Can I fix it? Thanks Tony __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From tvigue@adelphia.net Sat Jul 20 02:12:37 2002 From: tvigue@adelphia.net (Tony Vigue) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 21:12:37 -0400 Subject: [SlideCube] cube projector question References: <20020719192334.58167.qmail@web12505.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001601c22f8a$89f3be00$3a1f3618@Hal> Hi Tony, (how about that)..I am attaching a discussion that I found on the web page several months ago that should answer all your questions. If you are mechanically inclined, you should be able to make the adjustments. Read all the way to the end. If you find the little gear is broken, email Paul Jacobs junkyard@aaahawk.com who sells the delrin gears. Good luck, Tony Vigue John is an engineer in Texas who is trying to repair his Slide Cube projector himself. Derek is an experienced technician in Canada walking him through the repair procedure John: Derek, I'm looking to see if you have an obsolete B&H "slide cube" projector slide advance motor. The motor is a small "slot car" type motor. Do you have any leads on where I might be able to locate the motor or perhaps a used projector I can get to motor out of? Any assistance or direction you can give me would be appreciated. Thanks Derek: Hi John- I just got in a "Junker" but haven't had time to evaluate the parts. I believe the motor is working though. As I recall the user had shaved away parts of the turntable in a misguided attempt to improve transport and I can't get a new one. (The caveat...of course, any advice I give you below is for your guidance only and I take no responsibility for your ability or inability to do any of the procedures safely or to obtain desired results..etc, etc.) Let me qualify something first though. Are you certain that it is the motor that is at fault (I've only seen one die before) or is it the teeth on the little (black, or white) gear that it drives and that engages the turntable? This is more common problem. To check the gear (if you haven't) lift the top cover to expose the turntable. Note the little silver "finger" that is resting in one of the slots on the side of the turntable. When you reassemble, you'll want to fit it in again like that; doesn't have to be the same slot. Now, with a tiny screwdriver, pry off the c-clip in the middle of the turntable, note and remove the tiny black washer, then lift the turntable straight up at the 1:00 o'clock position is the littlegear. check the condition of the teeth. This gear is still available, but I don't know the source. There is a company in nearby Toronto that gets them but they cost a fortune. If needed I can direct you later. Now, if you've already gone past this stage and are into the "guts" inside, I'll assume you've diagnosed the motor correctly. (Check that there are no loose wires) While you're in there, look essentially in the middle and you'll see a locking nut on which the shutter blades pivot. This eventually gets sticky as the lubricant dries up. If you feel adventurous, you can disassemble the shutters, clean off the old lubricant and use a very light grease in small quantity when reassembling. If you don't have a very light grease, no grease is preferable to heavy grease. If you do this, note carefully the shape and orientation of the two shutter blades. They are not identical. Also note their position under a crescent shaped metal guide at the edge of the shutter blades. Remove the nut, then gently lift the shutter blades, one at a time. Note a small plastic washer under the first, and usually under the 2nd shutter blade arm (at the pivot point). Note the order in which they all come off. Clean and, if possible, re-lubricate the pivot points. Reassemble. Tighten the nut down to the point that there is some friction, then back it off a little. You don't want to bind the shutter mechanism. This is all to stop the projector from "skipping" slides and/or jamming. (They often jam paper mount slides anyway) When re-assembling the projector, there are 3 things to remember: Be absolutely certain no wires are pinched between the casing and the mechanism or inner casing. It WILL fit together, though it will not appear to until you are very, very frustrated. Do not swear in front of the children when reassembling. You will want to. Now, after all that, if you are certain it is the motor you need, please get back to me and I'll double check the motor I have and fix a price and mailing costs. John: Derek, I took it apart further, though I wished I had waited to read your email as I discovered many of the things you mentioned on my own last night. Yes, I attempted to remove the black lever. I loosened the mounting screws of the solenoid and finally determined, as you pointed out, the black lever was not worth removing. It appeared to move back and forth fine, but now the unit really 'buzzes" when I push the slide advance button. I'll tweak the solenoid position to see if I can get it quieter. Derek: That should do it. You'll have to experiment a little. Look for any tell-tale traces of the original position, made by the washer under the adjusting screws. Use that as a starting point. It's a pain to have to partially reassemble and test and repeat. John: There also seems to be an adjustment of the shutters that I haven't quite figured out, but there is an elegant design of an cam adjuster connecting the metal shutter arm to the black lever. Derek: I call it the eccentric, below. You don't want to touch that. John: I suppose if I ever get to the point of getting the turntable to turn (and stop) smoothly and consistently, I'll be able to appreciate the meaning of that adjustment. Derek: All things being equal, and the shutter blades assembled correctly and closing properly(see below) the eccentric adjusts the blades so that no light shows through when closed. Very unlikely to need adjustment. John: I learned the importance of that black lever and the switch position, this seems very critical (the first time I tried it after reassembly, the table just kept rotating). I think I have the switch position adjusted properly now, so the motor shuts off just as the "finger" begins to slide into the slot. Derek: You've been having a lot of fun haven't you? John: I found a potentiometer limiting the current to the motor so I cranked this for highest motor output and that helped immensely. It still rotates slowly and inconsistently, so I think a new motor and new potentiometer would help. Derek: Hmmm...Are the shutters opening/closing easily now? The locknut can't be too tight. One point of friction that MAY be a problem is where that eccentric meets the silver lever that pushes the shutters. While I wouldn't advise adjusting the eccentric, if you can lift the eccentric carefully to disengage it, clean the little silver "nub" that goes into the eccentric with solvent (WD40 is fine) on a Q-tip. See if you can get a tiny bit of WD40 into the "cup" of the eccentric. Again this is usually not a problem area, but you never know. As for the potentiometer, it's unlikely that it would need replacement unless you are getting irregular gain from it i.e. good contact/poor contact at different points. John: The "finger" that is connected to the black lever sometimes sticks halfway in the slot so the shutters don't open completely. I cannot find any additional source of friction in the assembly so I pulled the return spring and hooked it on the tang a few coils down to give it a little more force, but this may be contributing to the solenoid "buzz" problem. Derek: I've had to do that sometimes too, but I'd turn the potentiometer down a little. Again, only once in a while, do I find one that needs to have the silver "finger" turned ever so slightly from side to side to fit into the slot on the turntable. I do not recommend it as you can get it more out of whack than before. But it may be a last resort. Getthe speed down a bit and that should do it, assuming mechanism is not binding somewhere. Just thought of something- when the shutters close, is there any light showing through? If so, try putting the blade that overlaps the otherin position so it is under the other. They may close more fully that way. John: I really have a lot of respect for guys like you that work on these elegant mechanical systems. Everything must be timed and adjusted just right or they become temperamental, but that is the way machines like these were possible before digital sensors and timers. It's kind of a fun challenge for me to see if this mechanical thing will beat me. Derek: Frankly, I hate working on them. They were a good concept, poorly executed, with quality of parts and assembly going downhill the last few years of production. John: I'm going to work on it some more this weekend. Thank you for your excellent advise. I'll be writing you again when I've done all the damage... that is... I have explored it further and have decided what to do with it. John: Well, the projector works like new now! Derek: Glad to hear it! John: I located the source of the friction in the turntable assembly. It wasn't coming from the turntable itself, it was coming from the motor & gear assembly. When I originally reassembled it, I used moderate force to push the motor up against the plastic reduction gear. Since this gear has been referred to as the "Achilles heel" of the projector I was attempting to minimize tooth clearance and any premature gear wear. This preloaded the bearing surface between the gear and spindle causing a large amount of friction. I loosened the motor and reassembled it using light pressure on the motor and that speeded things up a lot. I also discovered that the projector itself contained a "spare" motor. I found an identical motor in the auto focus assembly. Derek: That's a new one on me. It never occurred to me. John: Since this had only a fraction of the mileage and load of the turntable motor, I swapped them. It may not have been necessary, but it couldn't hurt. The autofocus motor required a good "solder sucker" to remove the pool of solder from the PC board holding the motor's solder tabs. The turntable now turns swiftly and smoothly. Keeping the turntable at a constant speed, I found, is key to keeping the timing of all the mechanicals just right. After working on the switch timing a little more and readjusting the solenoid to remove the buzz, the projector works flawlessly. I did find that the spring still needed to be stretched and reattached a few coils down for consistent reliability. The spring may have lost some of its force from being stretched for so long. Lesson's learned: Don't apply much force on the motor to the gear when installing the motor. Don't apply much force on the motor/gear assembly to the turntable when installing the assembly. Don't ever, ever bend the finger that slides in the slot. Be assured this is not the problem. It will work when the motor speed and switch timing is correct. The timing of the lever switch that controls the motor is very critical. It is adjusted like "points" are (were) in a car's distributor. It must open (shut off the motor) just as the finger slides off the "ramp" and into the slot. When it closes is dependent on the motor speed for smooth operation. Thanks for all your help, Derek! Derek: You're welcome (but you did all the work.) ----- Original Message ----- From: "to to" To: Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 3:23 PMSubject: [SlideCube] cube projector question> MIME-Version: 1.0> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii> > I just bought a used cube projector autofocus bell and> howell> > Reverse does not work at all just clicks and slide> moves a little.> > Forward works, but turntable moves slowly. Sounds> like it might stop at any time. I ran 4 or 5 cubes,> and then even in forward, it was stopping in between> slides. I turned it off for a while.> Now forward works as before, but turntable turns> slowly. But it works I ran about 20 cubes. Reverse> still doesn't work.> Is this a serious problem? Can I fix it?> > Thanks> Tony> > __________________________________________________> Do You Yahoo!?> Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes> http://autos.yahoo.com> _______________________________________________> http://www.armory.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/slidecube> From t7001@yahoo.com Sat Jul 20 02:20:23 2002 From: t7001@yahoo.com (to to) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 18:20:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [SlideCube] cube projector question In-Reply-To: <001601c22f8a$89f3be00$3a1f3618@Hal> Message-ID: <20020720012023.94531.qmail@web12503.mail.yahoo.com> Hi Tony Thanks for replying. From the symptons I describe, no reverse, forward advances slowly. Does it sound like it's the the gear? Thanks Tony --- Tony Vigue wrote: > Hi Tony, (how about that)..I am attaching a > discussion that I found on the > web page several months ago that should answer all > your questions. If you > are mechanically inclined, you should be able to > make the adjustments. Read > all the way to the end. If you find the little gear > is broken, email Paul > Jacobs junkyard@aaahawk.com who sells the delrin > gears. > > Good luck, > Tony Vigue __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From t7001@yahoo.com Sat Jul 20 16:59:01 2002 From: t7001@yahoo.com (to to) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 08:59:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [SlideCube] cube projector question In-Reply-To: <000701c22f63$b937e0f0$6401a8c0@JORICAMBEVERLY> Message-ID: <20020720155901.84609.qmail@web12506.mail.yahoo.com> HI, Thanks for replying. I pulled the turntable off, and sure enough this gear is stripped. Did you replace the gear yourself? How hard is it to do? Checking the hear is easy, however to replace the gear requires further dissassembly? Anybody out there know how to do this? Also where is the best place to get this gear, lowest price. Thanks Tony --- bgyori wrote: > We had our B & H slide projector for many years but > recently when we went to > use if after a long period of non-use it would not > advance the slides. We > were able to get a new gear for it at Camtex on > Burrard St, Vancouver where > we live. I don't know where you live so this may not > be convenient. There > are sites on the web that advertise the parts. Hope > you can get it fixed. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "to to" > To: > Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 12:23 PM > Subject: [SlideCube] cube projector question > > > > MIME-Version: 1.0 > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > > > I just bought a used cube projector autofocus bell > and > > howell > > > > Reverse does not work at all just clicks and > slide > > moves a little. > > > > Forward works, but turntable moves slowly. > Sounds > > like it might stop at any time. I ran 4 or 5 > cubes, > > and then even in forward, it was stopping in > between > > slides. I turned it off for a while. > > Now forward works as before, but turntable > turns > > slowly. But it works I ran about 20 cubes. Reverse > > still doesn't work. > > Is this a serious problem? Can I fix it? > > > > Thanks > > Tony > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes > > http://autos.yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > > http://www.armory.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/slidecube > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com From samj@aiconnect.com Sat Jul 20 21:08:28 2002 From: samj@aiconnect.com (Samuel L. Jernigan) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 15:08:28 -0500 Subject: [SlideCube] Cube turntable Message-ID: <200207201911.g6KJBe221795@bellevue.aiconnect.com> Some teeth on my turntable are broken so it obviously doesn=B9t turn when the motor gear comes in contact with that part of the table. Is there a source for a new or used turntable? Sam From spcecdt@armory.com Sat Jul 20 23:28:48 2002 From: spcecdt@armory.com (John H. DuBois III) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 15:28:48 -0700 Subject: [SlideCube] Cube turntable In-Reply-To: <200207201911.g6KJBe221795@bellevue.aiconnect.com> References: <200207201911.g6KJBe221795@bellevue.aiconnect.com> Message-ID: <20020720222848.GA10820@armory.com> On Sat, Jul 20, 2002 at 03:08:28PM -0500, Samuel L. Jernigan wrote: > motor gear comes in contact with that part of the table. Is there a source > for a new or used turntable? No, I don't believe so (other than inside of used projectors). John -- John DuBois spcecdt@armory.com. KC6QKZ/AE http://www.armory.com./~spcecdt/ From t7001@yahoo.com Sun Jul 21 12:51:54 2002 From: t7001@yahoo.com (to to) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 04:51:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [SlideCube] Model # of projector Message-ID: <20020721115154.67684.qmail@web12507.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Anybody know where the model number is located on these projectors. I can't find it. Also how does one get access to the bulb? Thanks __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com From Stezal@aol.com Mon Jul 29 03:07:29 2002 From: Stezal@aol.com (Stezal@aol.com) Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 22:07:29 EDT Subject: [SlideCube] Removal from list Message-ID: <33.2ab0e7e8.2a75fd61@aol.com> Please remove me from your list as I disposed of mine due to problems.Thanx... From bgyori@shaw.ca Mon Jul 29 03:36:35 2002 From: bgyori@shaw.ca (bgyori) Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 19:36:35 -0700 Subject: [SlideCube] slide cube proj. Message-ID: <001b01c236a8$c255be40$6401a8c0@JORICAMBEVERLY> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_DmlDxGpCHM0i/iNLcagcsw) Content-type: text/plain; charset=Windows-1252 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I was able to get the gear replaced in Vancouver Canada @ Camtex Photo. I suggest you phone around the photographic repair shops in your area. --Boundary_(ID_DmlDxGpCHM0i/iNLcagcsw) Content-type: text/html; charset=Windows-1252 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
I was able to get the gear replaced in Vancouver Canada @ Camtex Photo. I suggest you phone around the photographic repair shops in your area.
--Boundary_(ID_DmlDxGpCHM0i/iNLcagcsw)--